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Now that the floors were done, it was time to start making the entire space look better. After patching any little nail holes or imperfections in the wall, and then spraying the texture, I applied the first coat of paint.

I like to cut in around the edges first, and then come back with the roller to hit the rest of the area.

I didn’t put down a drop cloth over the tile. I took my time and in the event of a small drip, it can be wiped up easily. This area behind the vanity was the most satisfying to paint just because of the drastic change. I had already wiped and cleaned the walls before painting.

Although I had already painted the back of the closet white about a year ago, we chose to match the color to the rest of the room, so I painted it again.

Now that the space behind the toilet was painted, I could install the toilet. I placed the new wax ring over the drain flange and smushed it down with the toilet, making a good seal. I could now tighten the base down to the floor with the provided screws. I also added the matching caps to hide the nuts.

With the base secured, I brought the tank and seated it on the base, making sure the gasket between the two was aligned. Now I could tighten up the three bolts from underneath.

I replaced the water hose with a new braided one and connected it to both ends.

Once I turned the water on, the tank filled up and the inaugural flush went off without a problem.

Next, I turned my attention to replacing all the trim that had been removed. I put it in place and then tacked it up with inch and a quarter brad nails.

I purchased a new door and had to cut it to size. Since the old door was the perfect size already, I laid it on top of the new one and traced it out. I used the circular saw to make these cuts.

The jig saw made quick work of cutting out the slot for the pocket door latch. I test fit the latch before removing it for paint.

I sprayed the door with a couple coats of paint. And it never fails, a fly got stuck in the wet paint.

After fixing the fly problem and attaching the sliders on the top, I brought the door in and hung it on the track. I could now screw the pocket door latch from both sides. And with that, the door installation was done.

Although it would have been nice to finish the bathroom completely before moving in the closets again, we were tired of the temporary setup. I moved in my wife’s cabinet and shimmed it to sit on the new tile.

Now we could re-install the drawers and the baskets above. At some point down the road, I will be re-making my side of the closet, as well as add a nice big shoe rack in the corner, but for now, I threw everything back together like it had been before.

I was running behind schedule on the bathroom, so I didn’t have time to make my own counter top for the vanity. Luckily, Ikea sells some solid, hardwood tops for a reasonable price. I purchased one a little over sized and had to cut it down.

I marked my line about a half inch long and rough cut the top with the circular saw.

Now I marked the actual line and then measured back the distance for my router to ride along the straight edge. I did this because the router bit leaves a cleaner cut than the circular saw.

I took a couple slow passes with the router, bringing the bit down after the first pass.

I did the same thing on the long side. I first cut it with the circular saw, and then came back with the router to make a clean pass.

To finish the cut all the way down, I swapped to the flush trim bit to ride along the already cut surface.

Same as before, I took my time and slowly made the pass.

The short side hung out a little further so I made a rough pass just to remove material. I noticed something wobbling…

The screw was totally bent!

After fixing the problem, I finished the rough pass and then the clean finish pass.

I had to find the center of where the sink would go. It took a couple measurements because I had to account for the backsplash.

Once I had the measurements marked, I cut out the template that came with the sink and then laid it out on the top. I made sure it was center and then traced the outline with a pencil.

I used a drill with a large bit to make a hole right next to the line. Now I could fit the jig saw blade down and cut out the hole. I followed the line pretty closely, but it didn’t need to be perfect.

This is how the sink would look on the top.

I used a random orbit sander and went through two grits, 120 and 220. It was already fairly smooth from the factory. Wood isn’t traditionally used for vanity tops, but we thought it would look great. I did some research and turned to the boat industry for the solution.

After removing all the dust with some mineral spirits, I mixed up Total Boat’s Penetrating Epoxy Sealer. This sealer gets down into the wood fibers while it’s still liquid, and then solidifies once it dries. And if it works for a boat, I have no doubt it’s going to work for the vanity top. They recommended thinning the sealer down with some lacquer thinner for extra penetration. I mixed it for several minutes before starting the application.

I put down a few very light coats to make sure the epoxy would dry and cure thoroughly. I let it sit a couple days between each coat to make sure of that.

Once the coats of sealer were dry I added 3 coats of Epifanes High Gloss Clear Varnish. The whole finishing process took a while, but it wasn’t something I could rush.

I brought the new vanity base in, which again, I didn’t have time to build my own so we purchased. I also added the newly finished top and back splash.

The vanity came with these little angle brackets to attach the top. I pre-drilled the holes and drove in the screws.

I had to notch out a hole in the shelf so the P-trap could fit. Then I plugged in the drain and connected the water lines.

I laid down a thick bead of silicone around the perimeter of the hole and placed the sink down onto it, making sure the drain connected down below. I smashed down the sink and then removed the excess silicone.

I added some construction adhesive to the bottom and back of the back splash and then put it into position. The tape measure was the perfect thickness to hold it against the wall.

Once the adhesive was dry, I added a thin bead of silicone to the joint.

After adding some finishing touches like the light switches and a GFCI outlet, this section of the build was done.

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My Project Tools

PAINT PAIL

PAINT BRUSH

PAINT ROLLER

ADJUSTABLE WRENCH

AIR COMPRESSOR

BRAD NAILER

CIRCULAR SAW

JIG SAW

DEAD BLOW HAMMER

SCREWDRIVER

HAND TRUCK

UTILITY KNIFE

DRILL & IMPACT DRIVER

TAPER MEASURE

STRAIGHT EDGE

PLUNGE ROUTER

QUICK CLAMPS

SCISSORS

RANDOM ORBIT SANDER

MINERAL SPIRITS

TOTAL BOAT PENETRATING EXPOXY SEALER

LACQUER THINNER

EPIFANES HIGH GLOSS CLEAR VARNISH

SILICONE

CONSTRUCTION ADHESIVE

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